Real journeys. Real lessons
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Journeys I've actually done
9 stories
Seychelles · Africa
La Digue by bike: the island with almost no cars
La Digue is the third of the main Seychelles islands, and the first thing you notice when you get off the ferry is what is missing: cars. There are barely any.…
Mahé · Seychelles · Africa
A barefoot beach dinner, the surprise that closed our Seychelles trip
For most of the trip my wife kept mentioning the same thing. She wanted, just once, to have dinner barefoot on the beach. Not in a restaurant near the beach. O…
La Digue · Seychelles · Africa
Hunting down fruit bat curry in Seychelles
Fruit bat curry is a real Seychellois dish, an old Creole one, and somewhere on the trip it became the thing I most wanted to eat. Not because it sounded delic…
Curieuse Island · Seychelles · Africa
Curieuse Island, where giant tortoises roam right past you
Curieuse is a small island off the coast of Praslin, a national park you can only reach by boat, and it is famous for one thing: giant tortoises. Not in a pen,…
Seychelles · Africa
Four islands in seven days in Seychelles, without rushing
Seven days, four islands. On paper it sounds like the kind of trip where you spend more time packing and queuing for ferries than actually being anywhere. It w…
La Digue · Seychelles · Africa
Sunrise on Anse Source d'Argent, the most photographed beach on earth
Anse Source d'Argent, on the little island of La Digue, is the beach you have already seen a hundred times without knowing its name: pink granite boulders the…
Seychelles · Africa
Is Seychelles worth the money?
Seychelles has a reputation for being eye-wateringly expensive, and some of it is earned. But the cost is not quite where you expect it, and there is a way to…
Bioko · Equatorial Guinea · Africa
Equatorial Guinea: the oil-rich island most travellers can't place
Equatorial Guinea is the African country almost nobody can place on a map, and the only one where Spanish is the working language. Landing on Bioko, its volcan…
Malabo · Equatorial Guinea · Africa
I swam Eric the Eel's Olympic time, in his Malabo pool
Every Olympics has one. In Sydney in 2000 it was Eric Moussambani of Equatorial Guinea, Eric the Eel, who had learned to swim only months before and found hims…
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