Coiba National Park, off Santa Catalina · Panama · North America
World-class on paper. Fine visibility, almost nothing in the water, a whole day gone.

Tested by Paulius Pikelis · 140 countries
DE-RISK · INSPIRE · BRAND
Coiba: is the dive trip worth it?
Coiba is sold as one of the Pacific's great dive sites: a former prison island turned national park, a biodiversity hotspot, the works. I went out with high expectations and had one of the most disappointing dives of my life. The visibility was fine. There just was not anything to look at. We spent the whole day in the water and saw almost no marine life, barely a fish, and after a long day on the boat I surfaced wondering what all the fuss was about. I would not go back.
That is the honest version, and it is worth hearing before you commit a full day to it. Reaching Coiba means a long, hot drive down the Pan-American to the surf town of Santa Catalina, then a boat out to the island, calm in the morning and rough by the afternoon. It is a real investment of time and effort, and on my day the underwater payoff did not come close to justifying it.
Marine life is the variable here, and on my day it simply did not show up. Coiba clearly can be spectacular, since plenty of divers rave about whale sharks and big life here, but what is actually in the water swings hard with the season, the day, and plain luck. I drew a blank, and so might you.
So treat Coiba as a gamble, not a guarantee. If you are set on it, go in the calm early morning, ask hard questions about recent sightings before you pay, and keep a backup plan for the day. And if diving is the whole reason you are heading to this coast, know that you may, like me, make the long trip and come up with very little to show for it.